From Argentina With Love

Ñoquis del 29 en Argentina--'Gnocchi of the 29th' in Argentina

 

In Argentina, the 29th of every month is celebrated by eating Ñoquis (gnocchi)--something that's not done in any other South American country.  The tradition likely came with the Italians who immigrated to Argentina--over half of today's Argentinians can trace their roots back to Italy--but the custom solidified via local amas de casa (housewives) who had run out of funds by the end of the month.  Looking for a tasty budget meal, they started making ñoquis, simple dumplings made from potato, ricotta, egg, and flour.  The 29th is also the feast day of San Pantaleon, one of the patron saints of Venice, another possible start of the tradition. 

Today, the 29th of each month finds delicious ñoquis on restaurant menus, in houses and in delis that sell fresh pasta all over Argentina. Friends and family gather together to share time and a meal.  Typically, money is placed under the plate as a talisman of good luck and wealth in the month to come.

This month, we hosted our own Ñoqui Day Party.

 

The Event: 

Saturday, March 28th , 2009--Ñoquis Del 29 at Guillermo and Rebecca's...

The Guests: 

Gianna and Claudio--friends from Mendoza living in the US, Aliza and Rob (and family) American friends who own our favorite yoga studio (but still fantasize about running off to Argentina) Gisela and Ariel, (and family)--friends from Buenos Aires, living in the US, Kazia, a friend who runs Pica Peru, offering delicious culinary tours in Peru, and Rebecca's Mom, who was a huge help with everything!

The Music:

Music sets the mood for any party, and where would we be without Astor Piazzolla, Mercedes Sosa, (see store) and Los Nocheros?

And of course, The Menu: 

Empanadas Mendocinas--empanadas filled with seasoned ground beef and onions

Empanadas de Espinaca--empanadas filled with spinach, ricotta, and roasted red pepper (recipe below)

Ñoquis con Salsa de Tres Colores--Gnocchi with Basil Pesto, Red Tomato Sauce, and Four Cheese Sauce (recipe below)

Alfajores--Butter Cookies filled with Dulce de Leche

...and lots of Malbec...

 

During the party, we talked about the traditions surrounding the 29th.  Gianna said her family made them at home (she's the one who taught me how to make the perfect ñoquis last year--she's an expert!) and that they ate them often but she never knew where the tradition originated from.  "It was just something we always did!"

We tried not to fill up on too many empanadas, because the ñoquis came up next.  Served in tri-color sauce, they were light and fluffy and incredibly good!  Gisela and Ariel's adorable son, Martin, (who's 4) paid us the best compliment after eating his ñoquis: he turned to his mom and said "Mami, quiero MAS!!"  ("Mommy, I want MORE!!")

Then we all satisfied our sweet tooth with an alfajor--a butter cookie filled with dulce de leche.  Some were covered in powdered sugar, some rolled in coconut, and some naked, all delicious!  (we actually stashed a few to eat for breakfast as part of the next day's recovery plan.)

You can easily have a ñoqui day party of your own--invite friends or family to share an Argentinean menu, put on some tango music and raise a glass of Malbec to good luck in the coming month--and don't forget to put a dollar under your plate!!  Salut, and happy Ñoquis Day!

 

Empanadas de Espinaca y Ricota

Spinach and Ricotta Empanadas

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small onion, diced fine

2 big bunches of spinach (I used 2 big bags of baby spinach) braised until wilted

1 1/2 cups whole milk Ricotta cheese

3/4 cup shredded Mozzarella cheese

1/4 cup shredded Parmesan cheese

2 eggs, lightly beaten, reserve some for painting the top of the empanadas

1 roasted red pepper, seeded, peeled, and chopped fine

salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste

12 tapas (discos) for empanadas, home-made or store-bought 

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Heat the olive oil in a skillet, and saute the onion until clear, about 5 minutes.  Add the braised spinach, chopping with a spatula to separate.  In a bowl, mix together the cheeses, eggs, and salt, pepper and nutmeg.  Stir in the red pepper, then the spinach and onion, mixing until combined.  Let cool before filling empanadas.

Lay out several tapas  on the counter top, to prepare them assembly-line style.  Put about a tablespoon of filling in the center of each empanada.  Wet your index finger with a little water and moisten the top half of the tapa.  Fold the bottom half to meet the top half, pressing around the edges to seal.  Cup your hands around the filling, packing the filling with the outside edge of your hands.  Seal using the repulgue technique, folding edges over and over in a pattern, or seal the edges using the tines of a fork.  Place the sealed empanadas on a lightly floured cookie sheet about 1 inch apart.  Brush the beaten egg over the top of each empanada.  Bake for 15-20 minutes, until the top is a golden brown. 

Salsa de Cuatro Quesos

Four Cheese Sauce

This sauce is fantastic tasting, super-easy, and can go on any pasta!

2 cups cream

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1/2 cup each:

grated Parmesan cheese

shredded Mozzerella cheese

grated Romano cheese

shredded Provolone cheese

1/4 cup cornstarch

Heat the cream in a sauce pan, add in the butter and heat over medium heat.  Bring to a simmer, and add in the cheeses, stirring to incorporate.  Stir until all the cheeses have melted, Add the cornstarch and stir until thickened.  Pour over pasta and serve immediately.

Sausage and Cheese Vendor, Mendoza Gas Station

 

We set out one morning to drive around the countryside surrounding Mendoza.  No fixed plan, no itinerary.  Stopping at a busy gas station, we saw the requisite stray dogs milling around the door leading to the convenience store, looking hopeful.  Gypsies sat on low cinder-block walls, wearing long, brightly colored skirts and  matching scarves in their upswept hair.

And there was this man, the traveling man's friend, an unpretentious entrepreneur.  He stood outside the gas station selling wedges of sharp flavorful cheese and cuts of salami out of his basket.  Using the flat part of the basket's handle to balance the huge wheels of cheese while he cuts it, he then drops it into a battered handheld metal scale to weigh.  

Dogs stand nearby, close enough for a scrap but not too close, carefully watching the customers.  The man, with his rent-free, mobile office and unfixed hours, sells sandwich stuffs to a couple on a motorcycle, who tuck the meal into a backpack.  Guillermo orders some cheese, then salami, hungry as he always is for tastes of home.  It is simplicity itself, and as the man wraps our lunch in white paper, we thank him, and are ready to be on our way.  No health department permit and no business license, for this man, freedom is a basket of salami and cheese.

Antoine de St. Exupery said, "He who would travel happily must travel light."  This man made happy travelers of us, indeed.

More photos on my flickr photostream, From Argentina With Love.

Empanadas de Vigilia--Lenten Empanadas (Roquefort and Walnut)

 

Like the majority of South America, Argentina is a traditionally Catholic country, thanks to its Spanish colonization, and in Argentina's case, its abundant Italian population.  And like Catholics in other cultures, Argentina has an array of holiday dishes, including Empanadas de Vigilia--literally, Vigil Empanadas--which are prepared during the Lenten season before Easter.

The idea to include these recipes here came from our friend, Gianna, who brought their existence to light, if you will.  She, like most Argentineans, would rather talk about food than politics, religion, or any other of the taboo subjects we Americans tend to embroil ourselves in over dinner conversation.

For those who didn't grow up with Catholic traditions, here's a crash course:  Lent is the 40 days before Easter, the day on the church calendar when Christ rose from his tomb.  During Lent, Catholics observe Christ's crucifixion and entombment, and on Easter, they celebrate Christ's resurrection.  Mardi Gras, or Fat Tuesday, falls before Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent.  Mardi Gras is the last day of decadent food before the Lenten season begins.  Lent is a time of fasting, quiet, reflection, and in honor of Christ's sacrifice, the sacrifice of a worldly comfort of our own.  For the 40 days of Lent, many people traditionally give up eating red meat, and eat simpler meals of fish and vegetables instead.

Not coincidentally, ancient Pagan traditions of Oester maintain a period of late winter quiet and reflection, the end of winter, a lean time in the ancient pantry, ending with the start of Spring, emerging from darkness, a 'resurrection'.  And of course, seasonal vegetables and fruits and flowers appear in the Spring, a time of renewal no matter what religious doctrine you follow.  But here I am, embroiling myself!

Typical Empanadas de Vigila are stuffed with seafood or other meatless fillings; tuna, spinach , and Roquefort all make an appearance.  But don't get the idea that just because these empanadas are made during Lent that you have to sacrifice flavor--the combinations are delicious.  There are several variations and combinations.  These ones are Roquefort (Blue Cheese) and Walnut.  They are simple to make and a wonderful vegetarian option--serve them during Lent or alongside traditional meat empanadas at other times of the year.  Happy Spring!

More photos on my flickr photostream, From Argentina With Love.

Empanadas de Roquefort y Nueces

Roquefort and Walnut Empanadas

1 cup crumbled Roquefort (or Blue Cheese)

1/2 -3/4 cup shredded Mozzarella cheese

1/3 cup pitted black (Kalamata or similar) olives, chopped fine

3 tablespoons walnuts, chopped fine

salt, to taste

ground pepper, to taste

12 tapas for empanadas, home-made or store-bought

1 egg, beaten

little cup of water, to moisten the edges of the empanada

flour, to dust the cookie sheet

powdered (confectioner's) sugar to top, optional

Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Combine the cheeses, olives, walnuts, salt and pepper, and stir to combine.  Lay out several tapas  on the counter top, to prepare them assembly-line style.  Put about a tablespoon of filling in the center of each empanada.  Wet your index finger with a little water and moisten the top half of the tapa.  Fold the bottom half to meet the top half, pressing around the edges to seal.  Cup your hands around the filling, packing the filling with the outside edge of your hands.  Seal using the repulgue technique, folding edges over and over in a pattern, or seal the edges using the tines of a fork.  Place the sealed empanadas on a lightly floured cookie sheet about 1 inch apart.  Brush the beaten egg mixture over the top of each empanada.  Bake for 15-20 minutes, until the top is a golden brown.  Dust with confectioner's sugar, if desired.

For more empanada recipes, and a great empanada dough recipe, click here.

For a video on the repulgue  technique, click here.

Pizzeria Capri--Mendoza's Oldest Pizzeria

 

They say that something of true quality will stand the test of time, and that is certainly true for Pizzeria Capri, Mendoza's oldest pizzeria.  After 46 years in business, it doesn't show signs of going anywhere soon, and with good reason. 

We found it by chance--by asking the parking attendant where our car was parked for a place to grab a quick lunch.  Without skipping a beat, he said "Capri!  You have to go to Capri! "  We weren't disappointed. 

We arrived just in time to get a table before the lunchtime rush.  Soon, the restaurant was filled with people--business men with ties tucked into shirts, elderly couples from the neighborhood, local construction workers wearing orange vests.

Waiters bustled about the tables, shouting orders over the counter at the back, making joking banter with the customers.  Our order was ready so fast that for a split second I had my doubts about how good the pizza would be. 

And then I sank into my first bite.  It was everything a good Argentinean-style pizza should be:  Deep-dish, crusty, yeasty dough with just enough good greasy flavor.  And the cheese--flavorful, melty Mozzarella thickly layered over the top and stretching out with each bite.  A few salty green olives  on top.  We washed it all down with a big glass of Quilmes (what else?) and too soon were on our way.

Capri doesn't dazzle with its looks--but it's often these unassuming spots that serve the best food.  It's situated on a busy side street in an area of town tourists seldom go.  It's got a long counter seating area, plain tile floors, fluorescent lighting overhead.  Rectangular tables scatter the room, spare chairs and pizza boxes are stacked in the corner.  But what it lacks in atmosphere ends up being one of the qualities that make it so charming.  It's completely without pretense, a simple spot for the Average Jose to grab a quick lunch or a pizza to go.  It truly is a local treasure, and people know it--the proof is in the pizza.

PIZZERIA CAPRI

La Valle 109

phone: 4 230 262

no web page

More photos on my flickr photostream, From Argentina With Love

Panqueques--Crepes Filled With Dulce de Leche

 

Argentineans and their dulce de leche are inseparable.  It's served on just about everything, in every imaginable way.  Almost as if there was a colonial-era Iron Chef competition, and the ingredient was dulce de leche.  And Willy Wonka won. 

Dulce de leche fills alfajores, the famous Argentinean sandwich cookie, it's an helado flavor, it's piped into puff pastry as a filling for facturas, used as almibar between cake layers, even reputedly put on the occasional ham sandwich, though those reports cannot be confirmed.  (Perhaps it was Mr. Wonka's sandwich.)

So the natural evolution is that dulce de leche should be put on crepes.  These sweetly filled crepes are called  panqueques.  (Pronounced pahn KAY kays) Not to be confused with an American-style pancake, these are paper-thin and strictly filled with dulce de leche.   (The savory version are called Canelones.)

Panqueques  are typically served for dessert, but don't let that stop you. 

The recipe couldn't be simpler--crepes, spread with dulce de leche.   If you want to get really fancy, roll them up and dust them with confectioner's sugar.

So now when Willy Wonka stops by for dinner, you'll know what to serve for dessert.

Additional photos  on my flickr photostream, From Argentina With Love.

Panqueques

Crepes filled with Dulce de Leche

For the filling:

1 jar dulce de leche

For the Crepes:

1 cup whole milk

1 cup flour

2 eggs

6 tablespoons water

3 tablespoons of melted butter, plus more for the pan

Blend all the ingredients together in a blender until smooth.  Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.

Heat a non-stick skillet over medium heat and brush the pan with butter.  Stir the batter if it is separated. The measurement for each crepe is about 3 tablespoons if you are using an 8 inch pan, you can use a 1/4 cup filled about halfway.  Pour the batter into the pan, rotating the pan with your wrist so that the pan is covered in a thin, even layer of batter.

Return the pan to the heat, cooking thee first side for 30-60 seconds, until the crepe is a golden brown.  Gently lift one edge and flip the crepe.  Cook the second side for about 30 seconds more.

The first crepe rarely turns out, (just like American pancakes!) so don't get discouraged.

Transfer the crepe to a paper-towel lined plate until filling, or fill immediately (especially yummy because the dulce de lechegets all melty) by spreading one half of the panqueque with dulce de leche.  Fold in half, in quarters, or roll into rolls, and serve.