From Argentina With Love

Tuna Stuffed Tomatoes--Tomates Rellenos

 

Earlier this week, I listened to Spanish Chef Jose Andres wax poetic about his favorite end-of-the-month meal as a child; Garbanzos con Espinacas.  (Guess what my favorite is!) The recipe is part of a series on NPR entitled "How Low Can You Go," where notable chefs feed a family of four for under $10. The recipes must  also be easy, healthy, and delicious--a challenging combination.  Listeners of the show were also invited to submit their own budget-conscious recipes. 

As I listened, I thought--Argentineans are pros at creating simple, wholesome meals for very little money.  With their own economic ups and downs, so many of the dishes they serve are delicious and, well, cheap.  I logged onto NPR and submitted this recipe, which is one of my mother-in-law, Florencia's recipes. 

It couldn't be easier, faster, or less expensive, and also fits the bill of being healthy and delicious.  Now, it may not be something I would serve, if , say,  Jose Andres were coming to my house for dinner.  But for a weeknight meal, it's perfect--it embraces everything I love about Argentinean eating--not overdone, fussy, or complicated, this recipe lets the eater eat, with humble ingredients yet delicious flavors.

Tomates Rellenos

Stuffed Tomatoes

There are a number of fillings for the stuffing, you may change things  according to your taste (I think salmon instead of tuna would be interesting).  Feel free to omit the egg if that doesn't appeal, or add chives or dill instead of the parsley.  I think this would be amazing with fresh late summer tomatoes from the farmer's market.

2 hard-boiled eggs, shelled and chopped

2 cans tuna

mayonnaise to taste

4 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

salt, to taste

fresh ground pepper, to taste

8 tomatoes, tops cut off, cored and seeded

Head of lettuce, for serving, optional

Wash tomatoes, cut tops off using a serrated knife, and core and seed them.  Set them aside.  Open the tuna cans and drain.  In a medium bowl, combine the tuna, mayonnaise, garlic, parsley, and chopped hard-boiled egg.  Stuff the tomatoes with the tuna mixture, and garnish with a sprig of parsley.  Serve on a bed of lettuce if desired.

More photos on my flickr photostream, From Argentina With Love

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Relevant posts:  End Of The Month Gnocchi, Tuna and Roasted Red Pepper Empanadas

 

The South American Table

 

Writing a cookbook that encompasses the cuisines of an entire continent is no easy task, but one that  The South American Table, Maria Baez Kajic does with ease by focusing on regional similarities in cuisine and culture, like breaking bread together being a cornerstone of family life, and  renowned South American hospitality. 

I had the pleasure of meeting Maria Baez Kijac (and Cynthia Clampitt, who assisted Baez Kijac with this book and is an author in her own right) at the IACP conference I attended earlier this month.  Baez Kijac, now in her seventies, immediately warms your heart with a greeting and a smile.  A native of Ecuador, she grew up in a large family that loved spending time together, especially during mealtimes.  At mealtimes, she says  " The conversation also varied, and I often wonder whether it was the food that enhanced the conversation, or the conversation that enhanced the food."  And the recipes in this book are something to talk about.

South American food is still one of the food world's unsung heroes.  New World ingredients, like the potato, pepper, and corn (not to mention several types of beans) are used everywhere, but some of the best recipes for them remain hidden in their countries of origin!  Baez Kijac demystifies this, (and others points) in the first three chapters of the book--The Geography of South America, The Pre-Colombian Civilizations of South America, and A Brief History of South American Cooking.  As a famous saying goes, "No need to know where I'm going, just need to know where I've been."  Having background insight into South American culture is essential in truly appreciating the continent's cuisine.

Finally, rather than a county-by-country breakdown of delicacies, The South American Table celebrates the varied influences on South American cusine and the essence of what makes it so distinct:  that from coast to coast, South Americans eat and live with music in their hearts "...For us, music and food go hand- in hand..."

 Baez Kijac says that for her, this book was a labor of love, and one she wrote with music in her heart.  And that is seen on every page, as she marries quinoa with tripe, humitas (a sort of corn tamal) with escabeches and cebiches,  dulces with passion fruit.  The reader delights in flavors enjoyed all over the continent. 

Asados, (barbecues) for example, are enjoyed with variations in Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil and Paraguay, and so can't be categoried as strictly Argentinean cuisine, and Beaz Kijac's book avoids categorizing.  With its thorough background information plus explanations about foods for special events and holidays, The South American Table is a treasure.

 

Above is my image of the Chimmichurri sauce from The South American Table, by Maria Baez Kajic, copyright 2003.  Reprinted with permission (and thanks!) from The Harvard Common Press.

Salsa Chimmichurri

Chimmichurri Sauce

Chimmichurri sauce is synonomous with Argentinean asado--the tangy parsley sauce, made with as many variations as there are cooks, can be more liquid for marinating meats as they grill, or made thicker (by using less vinegar) for dipping bread or seasoning meats, poultry or fish when they are served.  Feel free to adjust seasonings as desired.  You can use olive oil in place of the canola oil and dried parsely in place of fresh, as I did.

3 tablespoons boiling water (I used lemon juice)

1/2 cup red wine vinegar (some people use 1/4 cup red wine with 1/4 red wine vinegar)

4 medium-size cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (less if using American red pepper flakes, which are hotter)

1/4 cup canola oil or extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Place the water, vinegar, garlic, salt, black pepper, oregano, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl, stirring until the salt is dissolved.  Add the oil and the parsley and beat with a fork until well mixed.  Store in a covered jar in the refrigerator.  Shake well before serving.

More photos on my flickr photostream, From Argentina With Love.

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Pionono--Argentinean Cake Roll

 

The first time I had pionono, I had a hard time even pronouncing it, let alone figuring out how to make it.  We were at a typical Argentinean-style gathering; meaning people arrive sometime in the early afternoon (the invite said 12 o'clock) and stay until around 10 or 11pm, with food being served in continuous rolling rotations.  It's an amazing, tiring marathon of talking and eating and kids playing, and more eating and talking.

The piononoserved at the party was filled with salmon, cheese, hard-boiled egg, and sliced green olives, and I kept asking "But what's IN it? " (It seemed every bite was a new taste sensation!)  And then I would ask  "But how do you MAKE it?"  (Curious, curious--I had to know all about it!)

Alas, no one wanted to have an gastro-anthropological discussion with me about pionono.  (Maybe they were thinking "You know, Guillermo's wife may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer...")  It takes patience to introduce all those little cultural details to someone with voracious curiosity, like myself.  Such is the life of a cross-cultural matrimonio.

But (and it's been a few years since that party) I've  finally gotten to the bottom of the mystery of pionono!

It seems that pionono (besides just being really fun to say) has its origins in Spain--their version is a sweet, syrupy column, whereas the South American version is a cakey roll filled with all sorts of things.   An Argentinean pionono starts with a base that is very similar to a jelly roll--sweet and cake-like.  It can then be filled with either sweet or savory things.  Sweet fillings:  a generous layer of dulce de leche (of course) or crema chantilly (whipped cream) and chopped fresh fruit--strawberries, peaches, kiwi, banana... you get the idea.

But with the savory pionono filling, a whole new world of possibilities opens up!  It can be anything you dream of putting on a sandwich.  The roll part is still sweet, so there's a sweet/savory thing going on--in Argentina they call it agri-dulce.  You could fill the pionono with tuna, salmon, (smoked salmon would be good, too) turkey, ham, or cheese (my sister-in-law, Marisol, does a rockin' version with cream cheese and Roquefort). 

For this version, I chose a completely classic Argentinean filling, and layered on ham, cheese, roasted red pepper slices, hard-boiled egg slices, and sliced green olives.  But you could really get creative and fill it with just about anything.  (In fact, do that, and then send me your ideas, so I can try them, too!) 

Pionono is surprisingly easy, once you do it.  It takes 10 minutes of mixing and 6 minutes of baking, then a few minutes to fill, slice, and put on a plate.  Kids will love putting in their own filling (but will need some assistence with the rolling and cutting), and it's perfect as an appetizer a party, a picnic or school lunch, or as a quick mid-week meal.  I can't say enough good things, I'm hooked--and I think you you will be, too!

Step-By-Step Photos (plus a few more) posted on my flickr photostream, From Argentina With Love.

Twitter:  RebeccaCaro, (there's also a Fans of From Argentina With Love page on facebook--join us, please!)

Pionono

Pionono (Jelly Roll)

5 eggs

5 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon honey

5 tablespoons flour

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  In a stand mixer, put the eggs, sugar, and honey, and beat on high speed for 8 to 10 minutes.  Meanwhile, line a rimmed cookie sheet with parchment paper and grease with butter or spray with cooking spray.

After 8 minutes, you should have a fluffy batter.  Add the flour in all at once and beat for one minute more, until incorporated.  Pour the batter onto the cookie sheet and spread gently with a spatula (you don't want to de-fluff the batter!)  Make an even layer covering the cookie sheet.  Place in the oven for 6 minutes.

Wet a cotton (not terry-cloth) towel and put it flat on the counter.  Sprinkle it lightly with sugar.  Lift the parchment paper off of the cookie sheet, and lay the pionono face down on the wet towel, paper-side up.  Carefully peel the corner of the paper off, and continue, careful not to rip the pionono, until the paper has been removed.  Fill as below or as desired.  Roll carefully (too long on the wet towel is not good) and slice.  Arrange on a plate to serve.

Filling:

2 hard-boiled eggs, shelled and sliced

1/4 lb sliced ham (whichever kind you like best)

1/4 lb sliced mozzarella cheese

several green olives, sliced

2 roasted red peppers, sliced

Lay slices of ham across pionono.  Layer cheese on the top.  Layer red peppers, hard-boiled egg slices, and green olive slices.  Starting at one end, carefully start rolling the pionono up, until you get a large roll.  Slice cross-wise, and arrange on a plate to serve.

Limonchamp--Lemon Sorbet and Champagne

  

In my mother's backyard, there is a big, white tent--the kind hired for special occasions, like this one--it's our engagement party.  It's a blazing hot July day, but we're out in the heat, anyway, tyring to escape the heat under the tent, sitting at big, round, rented tables and eating off rented glassware. 

My mother should have been a caterer, because the spread is fantastic:  empanadas (made by a friend's aunt), sandwiches, salads, pastries from Denver's best Italian bakery.  An accordian player wanders through the crowd, dodging kids and guests in a musical two-step.

And finally, dessert--Limonchamp--a classic Argentinean postre made by putting a couple of scoops of delicate lemon sorbet in a champagne glass, and pouring champagne over the top. 

I first had it when Guillermo took me to Argentina for the first time to meet his parents.  We decided to have  a "big night out" in General Alvear (pop. about 20,000--so you see that the concept of big night out is relative!) 

We started at an heladeria--an Argentinean ice cream shop, where Guillermo brought out two styrofoam cups of lemon gelato and a bottle of champagne, and we sat at an outside table on the sidewalk having Limonchamp and watching cars cruise the main street.  (Including one amazing despidida--bachelorette party--that passed by several times!)  I was just excited that they sold Champagne at an ice cream shop, and I had never tasted anything like that--light, bubbly, and lemony--a perfect way to beat the heat that night.

Flash-forward to the future, a few short months later, and we're at my mom's, surrounded by friends, and making a toast, again with Limonchamp.  Thanking everyone for being there, we raise our glasses in celebration and add one more surprise with the announcement--we're expecting! 

I feels like ancient history now that our son is more than two years old, and it also feel s like yesterday. Limonchamp will always be a  favorite spring or summer dessert of mine--it's simple, tasty and refreshing after a large meal.  Just perfect to launch yourself toward those hot July days that are right around the corner--so go have some today...

Limonchamp

Lemon Sorbet and Champagne

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

juice of 4 lemons

zest of one lemon

Champagne

In a small saucepan, put the water and sugar, and heat over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved.  Remove from heat and stir in the lemon juice and zest.  Let cool completely, first on the stovetop and then in the refrigerator.

Be sure the bowl of the ice cream maker is good and frozen.  Then, process according to the maker's instructions.  In about 30 minutes, you should have lemon sorbet!  I had to put mine in the freezer for some additional time to make it harder.

Open the Champagne.  Place one or two small scoops of the lemon sorbet in the Champagne glass, and gently pour the Champagne over the top.  Serve with a small spoon.

Relevant posts:  Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, Empanadas Mendocinas (served at our party!) 

Follow me on Twitter--I have CHANGED my user name to:  RebeccaCaro

More photos available on my flickr photostream, From Argentina With Love

Panaderia Trigal--A Mendoza Pastry Shop

Guillermo found this pastry shop in downtown Mendoza and loved it so much, he took me back there--twice.  He discovered it after an early morning hit to the ATM, and came back to the hotel room with a bag full of medialunas--I knew there was a reason I married this guy!

It's a short stroll from the Plaza Independencia,  Mendoza's main square, on Avenidas San Martin and Espejo.  There's a kiosko (magazine kiosk) in front, and an ATM next door.  It's right in the midst of the bustle of downtown.  But walk into Trigal, and your eyes will be aglow with the myriad flavors of their baked goods. 

The smell of fresh baked bread wafts from the back room.  The women behind the counter, neatly outfitted in their plaid uniforms (with bread-baking babushka kerchiefs), whirl around filling customer's orders.  The cases are lined with everything from daintily frosted petit-fours to robust loaves of bread.  The smell, the colorful pastries, and of course, the flavors of said pastries--Trigal is a feast for the senses.

Above, the case in the front window facing the street--petit-fours and cakes--chocolate, cream-filled, and tiramisu-style tarts.  Below--sweet and salty breakfast pastries, including medialunas, the Argentinean glazed crossant that's sometimes filled with dulce de leche.

 

Other cases are filled with sandwiches on pan de miga--a thin white bread--stuffed with tuna and tomato, ham and cheese, or roquefort spread.  Or alfajores and macarons--made in -house--merengues, pasta frola, and tiny fruit tarts for one, to pick you up after a long day behind your desk.  (To be accompanied by a hot, milky coffee, of course.)  Baskets lining shelves are filled with crusty loaves to bring home for the evening  meal.

I leave you with this:  puff pastry filled with quince paste and covered with confectioner's sugar,  on my flickr photostream From Argentina With Love.  Have a sweet day!

Related posts:  Pasta Frola, Alfajores

Panaderia Trigal  San Martin and Espejo, (with other locations) in Mendoza.

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