From Argentina With Love

Nirmala's Edible Diary Cookbook Giveaway!

Nirmala Narine, who has been called 'the Indiana Jones of Spices', was born in Guyana in the family kitchen on an empty flour sack, delivered by a marijuana-puffing midwife.  Her grandfather was an Ayurvedic scholar and Hindu priest who introduced her to the importance of spices and cooking holistically.

Narine spent the first ten years of her life in this incredible Amazonian patchwork before the family moved to Queens, New York.  There she was educated and introduced to a whole new crazy-quilt of ethnicities and cultures--and the flavors they brought with them. 

Seven Fires--Grilling the Argentine Way by Francis Mallmann

 

Just in time for Father's Day, famed Argentinean chef Francis Mallmann makes his US debut with this tour de force book on 'Grilling the Argentine Way.'  Mallmann is accompanied by Peter Kaminsky, Brooklyn-based author of Pig Perfect, among others.  South American celeb chef Mallmann resides in Garzon, Uruguay, where he has a restaurant, El Garzon.  His other two restaurants are in Buenos Aires (Patagonia Sur) and Mendoza (1884) and he is the host of a popular show on Argentina's food channel El Gourmet called Los Fuegos.

Francis Mallmann hails from Patagonia, (actually, from Bariloche, where we honeymooned!) and later went to France, learning the techniques and flavors that launched him into super-stardom upon his return to South America.  In time, he developed a cuisine that he called 'Nuevo Andean,' based on the history of gauchos and Native Americans grilling, as well as traditional Argentine flavors.  Naturally, he retained his years of  training, combining flavors and textures, and intensifying them with technique.

The beauty of this style of cooking is that, true to its Argentinean roots, it's not fussy or complicated, it's pure and simple.  The ingredients are traditional, the flavors speak for themselves.

I'll let them do that:  Pears and Iberico Ham with Parsley, Olive Oil and Garlic Sauce...Rescoldo Vegetables (buried in hot coals to cook)...Tournedos Wrapped in Bacon and Sage...71/2-Hour Lamb Malbec with Rosemary and Lemon...Brook Trout in Crunchy Potato Crust...Tomitican (a tomato and bread soup topped with a poached egg)...Leche Quemada (a sort of grilled creme brulee) Dulce de Leche Flan...Dulce de Leche Panqueques...Chapa Bread...Galletas Martin Fierro...

Not to mention Francis' beautiful narrative in homage to his beloved Argentina, the myriad other mouth-watering recipes, and the photos, which are absolutely breathtaking. 

When I said on Twitter that I was going to sleep with it under my pillow, I wasn't joking--the book is a dream itself, or at least dream-invoking.  It's part guide-to-Argentinean-food with resources and background, part how-to-guide, and a lot of celebration of the beauty and culture of Argentina and its cuisine.  It is just a stunning book, simply put, one of the most beautiful I've ever come across, and will definitely be one of my favorites in my collection. 

If you buy one cookbook this year, buy this one.  You'll be transported.

Available from Amazon by following the link in the STORE tab above.

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My photo of Francis Mallmann's humitas recipe, reprinted from Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Wayby Francis Mallmann with Peter Kaminsky, copyright 2009.  Humitas recipe and Jacket Cover reprinted with thanks and permission from Artisan Books.  Thanks also to Amy Corley and Quinn Rowan at Artisan.

Humita

Savory Corn Pudding

Rebecca's note:  Humita is a corn pudding, sometimes with meat or tomatoes, and sometimes used to stuff empanadas.  It' s a very simple and very classic Argentinean recipe with roots in the Native American traditions of the north, in the province of Salta.  This recipe is easy and delicious.  The red pepper intensifies after a day, so use sparingly if you're going to have any leftovers. Also, the grating process is important, it also releases starches.  I didn't use any additional sugar, and it was very sweet.

From Seven Fires:

I first encountered humita, as it has always been made by native people, in the northern province of Salta.  In many ways, I think Salta is the part of my country with the richest culinary traditions.  Many of the Indians there speak Quechua, the ancient Inca language, and the women still mill their corn by putting it on rocks that have been work down over the centuries.  The señores still come to lunch with their guns tucked into their belts!

The traditional humita is prepared and served in corn husks, but I find that this recipe is simpler and fresher.  The most important thing to keep in mind is that you must do it only when the corn is sweet and just picked at the peak of the season.  Grate it rather than cut it off the cob.  Only then will it release the sweet juice that mingles so well with the spicy red pepper flakes, onion and fresh basil.  Serve with tasted country bread and a green salad.

Serves 4

8 ears corn, preferably yellow, as fresh and sweet as possible, husks removed

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup chopped onion

1/2 cup whole milk

1 cup fresh basil leaves

Coarse salt

1 teaspoon sugar (optional)

crushed red pepper

Using a box grater, grate the corn kernels into a large bowl.  Then run the back of a knife down each cob to release all the milky liquid from the kernels.

Melt the butter with the olive oil in a caldero or Dutch oven over medium-low heat.  Add the onion and saute, stirring until it is translucent, 8 to 10 minutes; it should not brown.  Stir in the corn with all its liquid, and saute, stirring until the mixture has thickened.  Stir in 1/4 cup of the milk.  Once the milk is absorbed, gradually stir in the rest of the milk.  Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring, until the corn is creamy, 4 to 5 minutes, depending on the size and freshness of the corn.

Chop the basil and add it to the corn, along with the crushed red pepper flakes, salt, and sugar, if desired.

The South American Table

 

Writing a cookbook that encompasses the cuisines of an entire continent is no easy task, but one that  The South American Table, Maria Baez Kajic does with ease by focusing on regional similarities in cuisine and culture, like breaking bread together being a cornerstone of family life, and  renowned South American hospitality. 

I had the pleasure of meeting Maria Baez Kijac (and Cynthia Clampitt, who assisted Baez Kijac with this book and is an author in her own right) at the IACP conference I attended earlier this month.  Baez Kijac, now in her seventies, immediately warms your heart with a greeting and a smile.  A native of Ecuador, she grew up in a large family that loved spending time together, especially during mealtimes.  At mealtimes, she says  " The conversation also varied, and I often wonder whether it was the food that enhanced the conversation, or the conversation that enhanced the food."  And the recipes in this book are something to talk about.

South American food is still one of the food world's unsung heroes.  New World ingredients, like the potato, pepper, and corn (not to mention several types of beans) are used everywhere, but some of the best recipes for them remain hidden in their countries of origin!  Baez Kijac demystifies this, (and others points) in the first three chapters of the book--The Geography of South America, The Pre-Colombian Civilizations of South America, and A Brief History of South American Cooking.  As a famous saying goes, "No need to know where I'm going, just need to know where I've been."  Having background insight into South American culture is essential in truly appreciating the continent's cuisine.

Finally, rather than a county-by-country breakdown of delicacies, The South American Table celebrates the varied influences on South American cusine and the essence of what makes it so distinct:  that from coast to coast, South Americans eat and live with music in their hearts "...For us, music and food go hand- in hand..."

 Baez Kijac says that for her, this book was a labor of love, and one she wrote with music in her heart.  And that is seen on every page, as she marries quinoa with tripe, humitas (a sort of corn tamal) with escabeches and cebiches,  dulces with passion fruit.  The reader delights in flavors enjoyed all over the continent. 

Asados, (barbecues) for example, are enjoyed with variations in Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil and Paraguay, and so can't be categoried as strictly Argentinean cuisine, and Beaz Kijac's book avoids categorizing.  With its thorough background information plus explanations about foods for special events and holidays, The South American Table is a treasure.

 

Above is my image of the Chimmichurri sauce from The South American Table, by Maria Baez Kajic, copyright 2003.  Reprinted with permission (and thanks!) from The Harvard Common Press.

Salsa Chimmichurri

Chimmichurri Sauce

Chimmichurri sauce is synonomous with Argentinean asado--the tangy parsley sauce, made with as many variations as there are cooks, can be more liquid for marinating meats as they grill, or made thicker (by using less vinegar) for dipping bread or seasoning meats, poultry or fish when they are served.  Feel free to adjust seasonings as desired.  You can use olive oil in place of the canola oil and dried parsely in place of fresh, as I did.

3 tablespoons boiling water (I used lemon juice)

1/2 cup red wine vinegar (some people use 1/4 cup red wine with 1/4 red wine vinegar)

4 medium-size cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (less if using American red pepper flakes, which are hotter)

1/4 cup canola oil or extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Place the water, vinegar, garlic, salt, black pepper, oregano, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl, stirring until the salt is dissolved.  Add the oil and the parsley and beat with a fork until well mixed.  Store in a covered jar in the refrigerator.  Shake well before serving.

More photos on my flickr photostream, From Argentina With Love.

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IACP Conference--Pioneering a Sustainable World

 

Yesterday I had the most amazing day at  the IACP conference!  For my fellow bloggers and food writers who were unable to attend--I hope you can benefit from this post.  This year's IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) Conference is being held in Denver, my hometown.  The theme is Pioneering a Sustainable World, and it not only focuses on a food professional's obligations to encourage sustainable practices, but also on sustaining our own careers during these tough financial times.

My first round-table was with the lovely and amazing literary agent Lisa Ekus-Saffer (pictured at left) of the Lisa Ekus Group.  She coached myself and several other would-be cookbook writers through the choppy waters of negotiating a book deal, the important ways an agent works for you, and what an author can expect--from your first book proposal to selling your book and getting royalties.  Needless to say, Lisa's information was invaluable, and she presented it in an engaging and approachable way.  Her site gives culinary authors LOADS of helpful info, so check it out!

As they say, the proof is in the pudding (or perhaps, the souffle, in this case)--Lisa is the agent of Virginia Willis, the chef and author of  Bon Appetit, Y'All (pictured above at right holding her book) Her cookbook, which combines her southern heritage and French training, has become nationally acclaimed and is up for an IACP award this year!  Congrats, Virginia!  And thank you!  (BTW--the photographer here was Paulette Phlipot, photographer of the book A Taste of Wyoming!)

Virginia passed on advice about letting editors and others know you are out there as an author.  She stressed the importance of maintianing an updated website, a great marketing tool.   Also at the table:  Jill Nussinow, aka The Veggie Queen, local Denver food blogger Denveater, and Stephanie of the Southern Food and Beverage Museum in New Orleans.

At lunch, I sat with Jacqueline Church,  food-writer and networker extroaordinaire, Tiffany Collins (another Lisa Ekus protege and author of the book Panini, which she wrote in under 3 months), Belinda Smith-Sullivan, aka the Flying Foodie, and Maida Pineda, who came all the way from Singapore and was still able to be cheerful!

The afternoon was filled with a panel called "The Food Writer's Dilemma" where panelists Virgina Willis, Hsaio-Ching Chou--foodwriter turned PR guru (or "MOMpreneur", as she put it), Dana McCauley--Canadian food expert, the inspiring Lia Huber of the Nourish Network, Jenni Ferrari-Adler, editor of the anthology Alone In The Kitchen With An Eggplant and Peter Hertzmann all gave advice and shared their own (sometimes difficult) experiences of how to navigate the tough tides of the economic downturn, manage social media, and approach things in a fresh way to keep yourself motivated. 

Again and again though the message was--be yourself, be genuine and follow your own passion.  The events were moderated by Kathleen Flinn, author of The Sharper Your Knife , The Less You Cry.  Also in attendance--Jason Sheehan, restaurant critic for local alternative rag Westword--out of his normal incognito shell, but savage as ever!

The evening hours were spent at the Denver Art Museum, where Mayor John Hickenlooper (who I had the chance to meet, since he had met Guillermo the day before--both have a passion for geology and beer!) rallied the crowd with a  rousing welcome and then sent us off to enjoy locally made and grown delights:  beers from the Wynkoop Brewery, food from local-grown restaurants Potager, Duo, and Frasca, and delicious cheeses from locals Haystack Mountain, and MouCo. 

If you've stuck with me this long--I know it sounds like I'm doing a lot of name-dropping in this post!  But I want to tell you that if you follow the links above, you will find new ideas and encouragement on each one.  I wanted to share with you all the awesome positivity present at the conference--which will be enough to sustain me for quite awhile!